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Artificial Bonsai Trees to Enhance Home Decor

no@spam.com (Jeff Hoffman) — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:57:48 EDT

Bonsai (bon-sai), the Japanese word, literally means �tray planting�. It is the art of dwarfing trees or plants into pleasing shapes. Although widely accepted that this skill originated in China, it is the Japanese that developed it into a truly ethereal artform.

Attic Insulation -- Radiant Barrier Versus Blown In

no@spam.com (Christine OKelly) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 17:47:02 EDT

Homeowners who are looking to lower their utility bills should take the time to research adding insulation to their homes. Insulation lowers utility bills by keeping the summer heat out of the house while locking in warmth during the winter months. This offers year round savings on both heating and cooling.

Houston attic insulation is a sound home investment that will pay for itself in saved energy bills over the years. The two main types are radiant barrier and blown in. A radiant barrier is a coating that is applied to the ceiling inside the attic that reflects the heat from the sun away from the house and heat during the winter back into the house. Blown in insulation is a fiberglass fill that coats the floor of the ceiling, providing a traditional layer of insulation between the home and the outdoors.

Let's take a look at how both types compare:

Radiant Barrier Insulation

By applying a reflective layer to the ceiling of an attic, a radiant barrier creates an insulating layer. Instead of relying on a thick coating of material, the coating reflects energy like a mirror. This keeps the sun's hot energy out of a home during the summer, but will also keep heat inside a home during the winter. Radiant barrier is known to reduce attic temperature by 30 degrees.

Radiant barrier Houston is applied much like paint. It will allow water vapor to pass through, so it will not trap moisture or promote mold and mildew growth. This technology was originally created by NASA and then used by the military. Now, the consumer industry can benefit from a practical, efficient way to keep a home insulated. The coating will last for at least 15 years and will pay for itself in that time.

Blown In

When most people think of insulation, they think of this common type. By using fiberglass fill to put down a layer in an attic, a home is kept cool through the summer and warm through the winter since the material acts as a physical barrier to the movement of heat. Blowing the material into an attic is a better way to apply insulation as compared to rolling or nailing sheets. Blown in material will not lock in moisture the way rolls will.

Fiberglass is a long lasting material and will provide a protective barrier for about 30 to 40 years. It is also fire retardant, non-corrosive, and pest resistant, making fiberglass an excellent choice for use in an attic. This is traditional insulation material for a reason. It is proven to work.

Both choices for Houston attic insulation will save homeowners money and make their homes more comfortable. A radiant barrier can be applied to the ceiling of a finished attic and no one would ever notice. Blown in fiberglass is the standard in insulation for its long track record. Either way, making a home more energy efficient is a good decision for the family budget.

Garage Door Styles Help Up Curb Appeal

no@spam.com (Anne Richards) — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:25:43 EDT

This weekend, take a drive around a nice neighborhood and
look at their garage doors. What works? What doesn't? Which
styles go together?

Top Things To Look For In A Professional Landscape Company

no@spam.com (David S Judge) — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:06:44 EDT

When your outdoor landscaping looks great, it makes
spending time outside that much more pleasant and
enjoyable. You're probably willing to spend a decent amount
of money to get it right, but it's important to spend that
money wisely by tracking down a landscape design company
that offers everything you need - and more.

Dispelling The Myth That Pools Waste A Lot Of Water

no@spam.com (Davo Judge) — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:53:16 EDT

Thousands of people all around Australia own and enjoy
their pools. Most of them will tell you that the rumor
about pools wasting water is simply untrue. By using a few
simple techniques, you can own a pool without wasting water
- and without incurring a huge water bill.

Air Quality and Energy Efficiency Work Hand in Hand

no@spam.com (Beverly Saltonstall) — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 16:10:30 EDT

It is an easy task to improve the indoor air quality of
your home while improving its energy efficiency at the same
time. Knowing some basic steps is all you need to get
started.

Improve Air Quality and Energy Efficiency by Eliminating
Drafts

The first order of business is to eliminate as many drafts
as possible. This will limit the quantity of airborne
allergens that can enter your home from outside. Draft
prevention can improve air quality inside our homes, and
has the added benefit of improving the energy efficiency of
our heating and cooling systems. Much of your high energy
costs is due to loss of heat in the winter and in the
summer, the loss of air conditioning, generates higher
energy bills and it wastes your money and our natural
resources.

Reducing drafts helps reduce the outside irritants and
toxic particles that can be found suspended in outdoor air
and have less chance of getting into your home.

Air Circulation Improves Improve Air Quality and Energy
Efficiency

Circulating the air inside becomes very important as it
allows the air to move around and the rooms will not become
stuffy, stale and full of odors. Using an air conditioner
to control the humidity in your home will also reduce or
eliminate humidity and reduce the need for a dehumidifier
which is very expensive to operate.

Create a Save Haven in Your Home

Your ability to control your indoor air quality and energy
efficiency will allow you to create a safe haven in your
home, This will help protected from airborne microbes such
as small pox, anthrax, botulism, toxic gas, and radio
active particle that can be released by terrorists or by
accident.

Improve Air Quality and Energy Efficiency by Leakage Testing

A simple air leakage test is your first step you need to do
to improve your indoor air quality and energy efficiency.
All that is needed is a fan set up near an outer doorway.
After placing the fan in the outer doorway, you will
observe that eh amount of air that flows through the fan is
equal to the air that is flowing through any leaks in the
outer shell of the building.

If you use white smoke while you perform the leakage test,
you will see openings in windows or door that are allowing
your air conditioning and heating to escape or toxins to
enter. These cracks are also places where dust, insects,
pollen and mold spores can enter the home.

Most people are aware of the fact that older homes are
often drafty due to multiple leaks, but believe it or not,
newly constructed homes can also have air leaks. It is
estimated that new homes can have upwards of 300 square
inches of air openings in the outer shell. If you have a
ducted air circulation system in your home, these openings
can create a significant level of pressure inside the home
that will drive air through these openings. Don't fall
into the trap of thinking that since you have a new home,
you don't have any leakage problems.

Conclusion

One final caveat. If you are planning on sealing up your
home to improve the air quality and energy efficiency of
your home, you must think about reducing the amount of
chemicals that you use. More and more studies are showing
that the air quality within our homes is often worse than
the air we breathe outside. Carpeting that gives off toxic
fumes, cleaning products, personal care products and
electronic equipment are only a few of the products that we
use indoors that is contributing to "sick house syndrome".
So before you tackle the job of improving your air quality
and energy efficiency, use more natural products in your
home to keep you and your family safe.

So you want to buyan Easy Set Pool ?

no@spam.com (Neil Holley Williams) — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 09:16:27 EDT

The kids will soon be out of school for the summer and a
garden pool might be just what you need to keep them cool
and happy, so if you are thinking about buying a
non-permanent pool, this article should be able to help you
decide whether to buy and what to buy.

The easiest pool to buy is what is known as an 'Easy Set'
pool. 'Easy Set' Pools can be installed, ready for filling
within 10 minutes. The pools are made from high quality
re-enforced PVC with a flotation collar and they sit above
ground.

'Easy Set' pools are a great idea, and they have dropped to
excellent price levels. They can provide great
entertainment at sensible prices. An 'Easy Set' pool can
set you back as little as £60 to £100 and that
includes at least a filter.

This article will tell you all about 'Easy Set' pools and
what you can expect, and what you need to think about
before you buy. Buying an ''Easy Set'' pool, despite the
name, is not like buying a paddling pool. This article will
make sure that you don't get into something you don't want
to.

Despite the low price, an 'Easy Set' pool is a 'proper'
piece of kit which needs careful consideration and planning

First, which pool size are you going to buy ?

The size will depend on the space you have available, your
budget, and the number and experience of swimmers who will
be using it.

The simplest pools are about 10 feet in diameter, and 36
inches deep, rising to 18 feet in diameter and nearly 4
feet deep.

You need to think about where you will site the pool. It's
really important that the pool is situated on a flat area,
and you may want to think about siting it in a sunny area,
away from leaf fall, or bird droppings.

If you don't have a flat area, you should think about
levelling the ground first. If the ground isn't level, then
one side of your pool may be up to the top with water,
while the other side is shallow by a few inches or more.
Not only does this look unsightly and out of place, but
this would probably cause added pressure on the lower side,
which would make it more vulnerable to collapsing.

You might also want to think about buying the largest you
can. One of the advantages to buying one of the larger
pools is that they are also proportionally deeper. With all
of these types of affordable pool the box may say it is 48"
deep (4 feet) but you have to read the fine print. In
THEORY the depth is 48", in still water, but that will
always leave the pool very full and on the verge of
spilling over. In reality, it is about 40" or so deep.

With the flotation ring types of pool, you should also
consider that you cannot enter the pool using the sides.
You should buy a ladder that goes up and over the flotation
ring. Putting pressure ON TOP of the flotation ring will
cause the side of the pool to be mashed down enough to
allow the pool water to start cascading over the side in a
torrent. This may not be a problem with a small pool if you
can lift children in and out, but you may get a bit fed up
of having to do this all the time.

Before setting anything on the ground, clear the area of
any rocks, sticks, twigs, or sharp objects that could
puncture the pool. It might be a good idea to set down a
tarpaulin or something similar.

Make sure you are in a place where you're going to have
access to water and electricity. And have a place nearby
that you're going to be able to drain the water at the end
of the summer.

You might be think that thee noise from the filter would be
distracting, but these are generally very quiet and don't
have a loud motorised hum, but more of a whisper. In fact,
someone probably wouldn't even notice unless they were
within a few feet of it. So it's not a problem having near
the house, and it certainly won't upset the neighbours. To
set up the pool, you just put air in the top ring, with an
electric pump it should only take a few minutes.

When you are finished just turn on you water hose and fill
it with water. It may take between 3 or 4 hours to fill,
but this of course depends on your water pressure. Make
sure you take any nozzles off the hose as it will fill much
faster.

Fill the pool about one inch. Make sure the water spreads
evenly while filling the pool. If not, you may need to move
the pool to a different area. After you have filled the
pool approximately an inch, stand back, away from the pool
to make sure the ground still looks even. If the ground
looks uneven, it is best to drain the pool and move to a
new location.

The pool sides will start to rise as the pool fills, and
the reinforced PVc will start to form the pool walls.

Be aware that a small 8ft pool can take as much as 4000
litres and some of the larger 'Easy Set's pools (18ft), as
much as 18,000 litres; so depending on which pool you
purchased, it could take a lifetime to fill.

Continue filling the pool. Every hour or so while filling
the pool, stretch out any wrinkles that may be inside the
pool. The pool will rise as the water fills up. The water
will support the pool walls.

And while you are filling the pool, notice how even the
water is spread across the bottom. If it isn't even,
remember, you're either going to have to live with the
difference for the rest of the season, or you'll need to
stop, drain the pool, correct the problem, and try again.

Refer to your package's instructions for filter or pump
instructions. I should mention that the pool package will
probably come with an instructional DVD. Maintaining the
pool every day may be necessary. Think about purchasing a
cover for your pool to help keep debris out, and only use
the filter as necessary. Covers are very cheap, starting
at £5.00. You can also buy solar covers for your pool
at about £15. Solar covers are designed to attract
the sun's heat and focus it into your pool. It also helps
prevent heat escaping overnight.

Depending on the size of your pool, and the size of your
filter pump, you might be instructed to run the motor for a
minimum number of hours each day. An outdoor timer might be
a good idea. Anything to make you less of a slave to your
new pool is all the better. It will also help regulate the
amount of electricity you use (because you won't leave the
motor running), and improve the quality of the pool's water
(because you won't forget to turn it on). You will need to
clean your filter regularly and replace it at least 2 times
a year.

You should also be aware that you will need to buy a
Chemical Maintenance Kit if your pool is going to be set up
for any length of time. Your pool chemicals should always
be in balance to prevent skin and eye irritation. A
Chemical kit contains all you need to maintain crystal
clear water in your pool, and prevents algae growth and
skin and eye irritation. Shock treatment is included in the
form of stabilised chlorine granules, pH adjustment
chemicals to maintain the right level of pH, Polyquat
Algaecide to help remove algae and test strips to help keep
the chemicals at the right level. Shock treatment is a term
that refers to 'kick starting' the chlorine cleaning cycle
of the chlorine already in the water.

To underline the purpose of this article, buying an 'easy
set' pool should be a considered purchase, but once you've
made up your mind to buy, it's a commitment to a leisure
lifestyle.

Pool Chemistry Made Easy

no@spam.com (aaron smith) — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 11:59:44 EDT

Maintaining a pool comes in two basic forms, removing the dirt and debris that accumulates in the water and adjusting the chemical balance. For the physical dirt in a pool, a filter system, automatic pool cleaners, and occasional skimming will keep the water free of debris. The chemical side of pool maintenance might seem complicated, but it can be broken down into two easy concepts, pH and pool sanitizer.

Perfect pH Balance

In a pool, pH measures how the water is either acidic or alkaline. pH is measured on a scale of 1 to 14, with 1 being pure acid and 14 being pure caustic. Either of those values would not make for a pleasant summer dip! pH is measured by using paper pH strips from a pool testing kit and comparing the color on the paper to a chart.

The ideal balance for pool pH is between 7 and 7.6. This pH range is almost identical to the pH of our eyes, and will prevent that burning sensation and reddening of the eyes that you can get from swimming in a poorly maintained pool.

A high pH (over 8), creates problems with scale and calcium buildup in a pool that will clog pool filters, damage pool equipment, and leave behind a residue. Too low of a pH (below 7) in pool water will begin to corrode the plaster and metal parts of the pool and its equipment.

To adjust the pH to get into this range, simple pool additives are needed. Some are called pH Up or Down, or Pool Up/Down, and they all act to raise or lower the pH. You should check your pool’s pH after long periods of use and exposure to weather; rainfall and swimmers will all move the value.

Pool Sanitizers

Adding chlorine or bromine as pool sanitizers is standard practice for nearly every pool owner. However, the pH has a drastic effect on their efficiency! Has your pool ever started to grow algae even though you put fresh pool sanitizers in, or if you have hardly put any in, but the pool reeks of chlorine?

A pH above 8 in your pool water will render those sanitizers useless at fighting bacteria; when it is under 7, it actually increases the effect! This will not be a pleasant experience for swimmers or even your neighbors. If the pool is not as clean and clear as it should be, check the pH first.

Assuming your pH is good, you will want to measure the units of pool sanitizers in the water. This is measured just like pH with paper test strips. Good numbers for chlorine range from 1.5 to 3, and if you are using a non-chlorine sanitizer like bromine, look for a number between 3 and 5. If you are too low, you can add more, but if your sanitizer is too strong, you will have to purge some of the water from the pool and replace it with fresh water.

In the end, pool chemistry is very simple once you get the hang of it. Remember, the pH is the key component for the whole system to work properly.

You Don't Need A Chemistry Degree To Maintain Hot Tubs

no@spam.com (Christine OKelly) — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 11:56:56 EDT

Relaxing in a spa is probably the best way to spend free time and let the worries of the world melt away. Trying to maintain that hot tub should be just as easy. When talking about water, you inevitably have to get into water chemistry. Thankfully, learning the basics for running clean, crystal clear hot tubs nj is a quick and easy lesson. After learning about sanitizers and understanding the concept of water hardness and pH, maintaining a hot tub becomes a good habit.

Even if you already own a pool, the water in a spa is a little different to maintain, but the same general concepts apply. The biggest difference is the water temperature, since hotter water is a better environment for bacteria and it will also open up the pores on our skin, thus lowering our tolerance to these bacteria.

Simple Sanitation

Sanitizers for portable spas are similar to the ones used in swimming pools. The most common types are chlorine and bromine. Adding them to the water is a habit that must be followed in order to kill bacteria inside the water. Test strips can be purchased to measure the sanitizer level in the water; the strips are simple to use, typically they only need to be dipped in the water and then they will change color according to the sanitizer concentration.

A good level for chlorine is between 1.5 and 3 and bromine 3 to 5. Higher numbers will leave out an odor, and lower amounts will not effectively kill bacteria, so staying within the above range is ideal.

Water Hardness

Just as calcium is good for our bones, it is good for hot tub water as well, but only in the right dose. Hard water, or a high amount of calcium and other minerals, will give the water a cloudy appearance and will form scale in the tub and on the equipment. Low hardness will actually harm the tub's pump by pulling out minerals from the pump parts and into the water.

The ideal range is for calcium is between 100 and 250 for acrylic hot tubs, and 250 to 450 for plaster, which can be measured using test strips. Calcium can be added to water with a booster product, but lowering calcium is more difficult. It is best to fill hot tubs with water that has been run through a softener filter before it fills the spa, more calcium can always be added if it is too low.

Perfecting pH

pH is a measure of how acidic or basic the water is; acids are low in pH and bases are high in pH, neutral water has a pH of 7. The ideal pH range for hot tubs is 7.2 to 7.8 and can be measured with pH paper or electric meters. Lower pH means that the water is acidic and will damage the spa and irate skin, and a higher pH will cloud the water as well as irritating the skin. pH is changed by added a “pH Up” or “pH Down” to get the value just right. It might take a few tries, but once you get the handle on how the pH reacts to change, it will be easy to control.

That's it! In just a quick article you learned the basics of spa water chemistry without getting a four year degree.

Make Your Own Solar Collector

no@spam.com (Anna Williams) — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 11:00:53 EDT

A DIY solar collector can turn solar energy into thermal
energy and heat.

Thermal energy comes from heat, and should not be confused
with electrical energy that comes from a solar panel. A
solar panel converts the sun's energy into electricity,
whereas a solar collector simply absorbs the sun's
radiation, and uses it to create heat.

A simple do-it-yourself solar collector can be made out of
a typical pressed-steel central heating radiator. This is
inexpensive, and can even be purchased second-hand.

If you use a second-hand radiator panel, be sure that you
remove the paint from the front surface and reapply primer.
Size will not matter, but you should consider keeping it
around one square meter or less. Keep in mind that you'll
be installing the solar collector on your roof, and
anything bigger can result in the difficulty in handling it.

Once you've selected your radiator panel, the next step is
building a case for it. It is recommended that you assemble
the case in its final position, to make your job easier.
Then there will be no need to hoist the entire solar
collector up onto the roof after it's been built.

The case is just a simple box with a front cover glazing,
made out of the 3mm glass which is typically used for
windows. The glass must be purchased after you've assembled
the box. Measure the case, and buy the glass already cut to
size. Be sure to leave at least a 2mm gap around the glass,
to allow for its expansion. The glass cover must hang over
the lower edge of the case, by at least 12mm. This will
keep rain water from seeping onto the panel.

Making your DIY solar collector water-proof and keeping it
dry is not necessarily an easy task. You might prevent rain
water from entering, but over time, internal condensation
can occur. You can prevent this by inserting 5mm breathe
holes along the lower side of your box.

Insulation must be placed behind the collector, because
internal temperatures can reach up to 140 degrees Celsius.
Avoid using the cheap types of insulation, such as
polystyrene, because these tend to shrink or melt. To limit
air movement, ensure there are no gaps between the panel
and the insulation.

This homemade solar collector should be cheaper than others
available on the market. The thermal efficiency of a
central heating radiator is fairly comparable with the
commercial solar collectors. If you're looking for a cheap
way to heat your water supply, this will be one of your
options.